Easter Weekend Nairobi

Easter weekend is a time of reflection (for me) and a time of restoration and renewal. The sun continues to shine although, as it is rainy season here, the temperature is beginning to drop - it is a cool 25 degrees.

I am finishing my work and preparing to leave Kenya. Here are some images and thoughts that I will hold close to my heart . . .

A Samburu woman who works hard to care for her family in a village for women only.

 
The generosity of the people in Kenya and Uganda who give beyond their families and who value relationships above all else.

The honour of being invited to be part of the planting of a Peace Tree.

 The determination of a people to remain peaceful despite Tribal difference.

The equatorial light, the fertile soil and broad imagination.

Samburu

Each day here begins with the fresh breeze that slowly, as the day progresses, gives way to dust, heat and lethargy as the heat of the day sets. The people, birds and animals move more slowly and then, as the sun sets, the breeze comes up again and the dull heat of the afternoon subsides.  The moon rises above the river, the stars come out and the river, frogs and cicadas are the only sounds that remain.

Yesterday the water in the Ewaso Nyero North was high and then, after a few hours, almost dry. This morning it is high again and I am told that is because of the rains in Nakuru - so many miles away and the other side of Mt. Kenya really. Although I would like to sleep with my door open to get a full view of the moon shining on the river, a lion from across the way keeps me from doing so. Three days ago, being too old to chase gazelles, she hunted and devoured a Samburu man who was drunk on the local brew. His pain was no doubt numbed by his intoxication. The lion is being sought out now and I am reminded of my father's tale of being hunted while hunting a cattle killing lioness - the motion of slapping at mosquitoes scaring the lioness away.

Although much of Kenya is westernized (relatively) there continues to be a larger number of people who follow the traditional culture. The Samburu and the Maasai continue to have numerous children with various wives while, at the same time, wanting education for all of them - an impossible feat. One man I met had 13 siblings from his mother but his father had 5 wives. He had a total of 45 siblings. I told him that was a village not a family! The five wives were all at one time!

How can you educate that many people? But family is important and so the older siblings or cousins educate the younger ones by paying fees for secondary school, and often times, not getting an education themselves. I think over the past couple of months I have learned more than a year at school. Among other things it has become very clear how vital it is to adjust to my surroundings and that learning from others through observation and shared experience is enriching.

A few women

Here are some photographs of some of the women whom I have met and who offer strength and support to others. So far I have met over 500 women, many of whom have shared their stories with me and who have been kind and generous. I have spoken about some other women in other posts but these are a few more.

She was nine years old when she ran away form home as her father was going to marry her, in exchange for three goats and two cows, to a man of 60 years. She walked over 100 km to join a village where she would be safe from circumcision (FGM) and a young marriage. She is 19 years old now and taking courses to learn computers.

I met her before the election in the Kibera slums. She and another 6 women were educating other women on non-violence and encouraging a peaceful election. She was a victim of post-election violence, suffering tremendous human rights violations. She is mother of seven and, after being widowed, has managed to provide them all with an education.

We met at a transit stop in Kibera and then again in a meeting. She is warm and welcoming! During the election in 2007, she escaped with her life, breaking through the the bars and glass of her house windows. She hid and narrowly escaped with her life. She has survived horrendous experiences but nevertheless advocates for peace in the community that violated her.

 SHe mentors women encouraging them to leave the sex trade. She became a sex worker when she was 14 in order to support her siblings. She now spends her night handing out condoms to other sex workers, encourages HIV/AIDS testing for both the Johns and the women and has helped establish a medical clinic that runs from 11pm to 2am in order to care for women in the trade away form the watchful eye of the community.

 

She was imprisoned herself and now helps women in prisons by rescuing any children left behind when an arrest is made, encouraging and supporting the women while imprisoned and meeting them upon their release. She is caring for six children in her own home and is often called in the middle of the night by inmates about to be released.

These three women are all from the Gulu area of Uganda and now live in an IDP camp on the grounds of a prison in Kampala. They are supporting one another emotionally and trying to find peace after losing family, suffering through poverty, and enduring spousal abuse.

Uganda!

Caution is not cowardice; even the ants march armed. (Ugandan Proverb)

I went cautiously into this beautiful fertile country aware of its history of Idi Amin, and of the Kony Insurgency - both devastating periods for the people of the country. But I was also aware of Uganda's recovery begun with the rule of Musevani and his restoration of the traditional kings (albeit without powers) in 1993. So onward I marched, armed with knowledge and belief that Uganda would not be a violent place but a place of peace where these gentle, generous people lived impoverished lives but extended their arms to help those in need. They even put on music in the village for me my first night and we danced - a traditional ritual that is done after any meeting.

The children and adults all danced with the mzungu!

Lutengo is a small village about 30 km east of Kampala and about the same number of km west of Jinja where Lake Victoria feeds the mouth of the Nile. It is remote and reached by dirt road and has w little infrastructure but some electricity. I stayed at Issa Kirarira, Chair of Interchange Uganda and his lovely wife Florence - who is studying Nursing while on leave from the Army. She had worked in Somalia for two years are took leave to further her studies so she could help her community by offering support to women prenatal and delivery as well as being able to treat malaria and other illnesses that strike the villagers. Issa and Interchange built a well so the women could get fresh water thereby lessening disease in the community. Issa and Florence welcome all manner of people and open their home to families and individuals who need food or a bed.

While in Uganda, I met with women from the North who had suffered under the Kony insurgency, becoming displaced, losing all they owned and leaving behind the orphans of their siblings. This continues to haunt them as they have little income to care for the children far away, and seek to find peace within themselves - the peace rarely felt by those who survive.

I also attended schools to talk about peace and to encourage them. Knowing that a mzungu was coming, they spent hours writing poems and practicing in order to perform for me. We ended one event planting a Peace tree. (I cannot seem to upload the video).

Below is a photograph of a woman (the mother in law of Issa's sister - who sits on the chair) who is over 90 years old. She weaves intricate baskets and, as I was a friend of Issa's and a mzungu (I imagine) she gave me one. Such generosity is not unusual with Ugandans. I did not meet one person who wasn't caring for cousins or nieces or nephews or helping out a stray!

And of course . . where there are women, there are children!

 children with the women from the North.

 A young girl waiting for my meeting with women to end.

 

children who befriended me suring a soccer game of the Peace Team in Lutengo. the little girl on the far right commented the entire game on the quality of play and the players (I think).

Oh, there is so much more, but that is all for now

Tepesua Widows' Village

What a terrific few days it has been. I've been in "Maasailand" at a place called Tepesua - a widows village set in the middle of the savannah. Many women are left widowed at a young age as many Maasai girls are circumcised at 9 years and married to much older men at 11years old. The men die and, as the women have no inheritance rights, in many cases they are caste out of their communities and have no place to go. They cannot return to their home village, unless they bring back the cows - usually three and any offspring of these cows - to their families.  To support these women, Hellen created a village where 13 widows live. They survive by selling their jewelry and the herds of sheep, goats and cows they may have.

I was staying with Hellen Nkuraiya we went to the market one day to buy sheep and goats for the widows. This is how Hellen and I traveled back to the village.

Before we got in the "taxi" we ate lunch at the local place. I chose not to eat the stomach of the goat and was served goats meat instead. Here is lunch . . .

There was a lion around, so a Maasai Warrior stood guard over my manyatta all night. Here he is . .

The lions are very scared of the Maasai Warriors as, to become a warrior, you have to kill a lion.

Here are the widows welcoming me . . .

I was also given a Maasai name "Nareku", which means "someone who brings good things to others". I am honoured.

Miscellany

I left Canada one month ago today. The weather is getting hotter and people are beginning to anticipate the coming rainy season (in a few weeks). I spent the morning at the Maasai Market looking at the beautiful handmade goods for tourists. We can be weird about it, but the crafts, even though made for tourists are really beautiful.

I thought I'd include this photo. Isn't it weird. It is a sculpture in a parking lot of a hotel. I got a terrible fright as I initially thought it was a man hiding behind the lamp-post! Can you imagine seeing this as you pull up to park in the dusk? It would be so scary!

Here is a alleyway in Kibera. I think it is so lovely that this person has taken the time to paint the shutters and whitewash the exterior of  their home. Although this is the largest slum in the sub-sahara with very little sanitation people take pride in where they live.

The rooms are only about 8 feet by 8 feet if that but they really make good use of the space!

Everywhere I go prayer is offered: sometimes in song, sometimes spoken. Whether getting onto the matatu to wish passengers well on a journey or at the start or end of a workshop. I cannot seem to get the recording I made on the post, but I will continue to try. Just know that we began with a prayer sung and broke into dance!

The week of Valentines

Women love Valentine's Day. We love to be showered with gifts and attention and to be treated luxuriously. Yesterday was Valentine's Day and rather than being treated thus, I traveled by matatu to Maai Mahiu to meet some women who are scraping together their living having been displaced due to the 2007 post-election violence.

Here is a photo of a matatu . . .

Note the cartons of eggs attached to the back. This fourteen seater can crowd in a lot more for a short haul, but they don't like doing it long hauls as the police are checking vehicles. The one I took from Maai Mahiu to the IDP camp (Internally displace persons) crammed in 20 people plus the driver!

Many of these IDP do not even have the luxury of living in constructed houses, but rather spend the past few years living in tents that are now torn and praying the rain doesn't come and wash them away. The government do not count these women and therefore offer no support. It was hot and very dry  . . In the distance, beyond the donkey driven cart hauling water, you can see the buildings.  . . .

I met some women and we have agreed that I will return next week to discuss the upcoming elections and how they can maintain and encourage peace. They are particularly fearful as the last election caused their relocation!

The day was exhausting given the heat and travel. I was happy to be back in my lovely hotel in Nairobi.

Earlier in the week I had met with students at the university of Nariobi to talk about peace building as Tribal tension is increasing there as the election on March 4th nears. This will be the first opportunity for many of them to vote and they encouraged each other to do so, and to vote for the person who addresses the issues rather than voting for a member of their tribe.