Animals and humans

A couple of days ago I took a half day safari - just being driven into the Samburu game park by Tom Lolisoli, son of Rebecca Lolisoli who is running for parliament here; a daring thing to do in such a patriarchal country . . .but that is another story that I will tell later.

As we entered the park we were told about a lion who had attacked a calf just on the edge of the park. The pastoralist was was bringing the cattle back to his land after taking them to graze near the park. The conservationist were able to track the lion and shoot it with a dart to put it to sleep. They then moved it to a different location and placed beside it a recently killed gazelle (it had been badly injured and would not have survived so the conservationist euthanized it). When the lion woke up, it was able to feast on the beast. The calf was fine as the lion had been scared off in time and the pastoralist happy.

These lionesses are full after devouring an injured elephant, but that is wild against wild and there is not conflict here. The lionesses were helped by 21 crocodiles who took their turn and cautiously tore pieces off the elephant (now digested) when the lionesses were distracted by their own eating.

When women go to the river to fetch water, often they have been attacked by crocodiles. Many organizations now build water tanks in villages. Here one of the women in Umoja village carries a 25 kilo pail of water back to her village.

Samburu to Nairobi to Nakuru

Yesterday (Tuesday) I left my friends in Umoja and Unity village to catch my 12 seater plane back to Nairobi. Apin and Harry came along to see me off as they'd never seen an airplane up close and I encouraged Harry (on the left here) to carry my bag (knapsack for a few days) so he would have an excuse to get inside the plane. He was very excited. It was difficult to leave this . . .

my view from my hut

what I see in the morning at Umoja camp

The flight was lovely , although the heat caused us turbulence and a woman in the seat across the way was having a fit as she hates flying at the best of times. I returned to Heron Hotel and as I was a return visitor, they gave me a huge discount and advised me on how to get a matatu and how to be safe! I have to say that Kenyan cuisine however, leaves much to be desired - at least in restaurants where they serve "mazoongus" (foreigners). I had a hot shower and then early night as I need to steel myself for the matatu ride to Nakuru.
A matatu is a 14 seater shared van. You get in and wait for it to fill up. It cost $4 to get form Nairobi to Nakuru but you should only travel by day as in the afternoon the driver may fall asleep!
Stay tuned . .  . 

Sunday afternoon

It is 41 degrees Celsius here today but the breeze off the river Ewasa Nyiro allows for the air to move. I went to Unity Village today with Apin (19) and Harry (15). We walked inland form the river through blackjack (a low bush that has thistles on it and scratches your feet if you brush up against them.

The Village is comprised of women who used to be at Umoja, but have moved to another village as they are more interested in creating cottage industries. Some groups buy and sell sugar, others goats and goat skins that they take to Isiolo - a city about 2 hours away - beads and wire to make necklaces. They pool the profits and then collectively decide what is needed in the village. Perhaps they decide to pay the hospital bill for one of the villagers who has given birth, or they may need to buy a goat in order to butcher and sell it and make money.

I was lucky enough to be there when the women had been able to buy a goat and was present to witness it being skinned.  The blood is stored in a bucket and given out and taken to build strength.

It is so beautiful here and I dread going back to Nairobi. I beleive I will come back and do some work here but I am still investigating!

Umoja

The past couple of days have been filled with travel and excitement and frustration. Yesterday we drove form Nairobi to Navaisha and then to Maai Mahui to see the internally displaced people camp (IDP). Most of the people were there as a result of the violence post 2007 election. We listened to an educational session during which people were advised about their rights as voters. To draw people to the tents music was played loudly. Here you can see that the children could not resist dancing to the music.

The women are still visibly shaken and in fear that this upcoming election itll bring new violence against them – the majority were Kukuyu. The drive was beautiful and we passed Zebras munching grass along the side of the highway.

Today, I woke early and headed to board a Cessna Caravan (12 seat plane) with only one other passenger: a wildlife artist who spends 3 week three times a year coming here to paint. The flight was really lovely with herds of Elephants seen form above. WE landed here in Samburu and I have wandered through Umoja, escorted by Judy who is 19 years of age. She’s been here 10 years having run form her father who had arranged a marriage with a 60 year old man. She feels safe now and will choose her own husband when she is ready.

The women’s work is beading necklaces. They work in a covered hut most of the day.

Sheldrick Wildlife Trust

Here they are. It is a hot day - sorry cold fellow Torontonians, so they needed to cool down.

They also all got a bottle of baby formula. The organization has managed to rehabilitate and reintegrate 160 elephants back into the wild - finding them new herds.
Nothing more to say . . . 

Tomorrow I am off to Nakuru and Naivasha to meet with the group I hope to be working with.

Beginning in Nairobi

I've been in Nairobi for four days and have almost adjusted to normal sleeping hours. Each morning I am awakened by the Imam call to prayer - a haunting sound that draws me in to listen more intently to the sounds. Then the birds begin their announcements, competing with one another to give their morning news.

My first morning I went to the David Sheldrick Elephant orphanage but forgot to take my camera!! It was sweet as some of the elephants (6 months to 3 years) were cooling themselves but using their tusks to dust red earth along their backs. Monkeys along side the road - actually baboons I think, I'll have to check "the book". Then to a sanctuary to feed Rothchild's giraffes - although somewhat touristy it was interesting. Warthogs gobbled up what remained from the pellets that dropped on the ground from people too scared to allow the giraffe's tongue to touch them.

When I came back to my room and washed my face it was covered in red dust from the elephants!

It is beautiful here - sunny and warm. Bougainvillea of every colour, jacaranda trees and a sea of never ending traffic and people. Quick smiles greet me where ever I go! Yesterday I went to the Yaya Shopping Centre and discovered a brilliant book shop called Book Stop. I was early for a meeting and ended up spending an hour and a half purchasing only 4 books which showed great restraint! I will be back!

I was having lunch beside some long grasses. I kept hearing noise and seeing the grasses rustle. I thought I'd see a snake or some little creature. Out popped a pussycat post nap!

All my taxi drivers call themselves "Peter". As I get out of the cab, I am handed a business card in case I will be in need of a taxi again - which I definitely will as the distances and roads are chaotic to me. My current driver explains: "Just ask at the desk for Peter". When I say every taxi driver I have had is called "Peter" and perhaps he should come up with some different names to help identify himself to tourists, he explains that his Kukuyu name would be too difficult for tourists. 

Today, I'm taking my camera and returning to photograph the LF-ants.